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1/6/09

Posted 1/6/09 at 7:05 PM

Openings

Inside Martin Brock’s Atria, Née Grayz

Post-Kunz, the midtown lounge and private dining space briefly known as Grayz is reborn this Thursday night as Atria, the new name an allusion to the townhouse’s distinctive eight-story atrium. That grand space, now hung with sculptures by Brooklyn-based artist Shaun Acton, has reverted to its original, Aquavit-era purpose as the main dining room, while the ground floor has been designated the bar and lounge. Very little else has changed, though: The kitchen remains in the hands of Kunz understudy Martin Brock, whose full menu debuts February 2. Until then, he’s offering limited prix fixe menus priced to match Restaurant Week (lunch, $24.07; dinner, $35) and featuring globally inflected dishes like date-glazed baby back ribs with hominy grits, Aleppo popcorn, and tamarind reduction.

Atria. 13-15 W. 54th St., nr. Fifth Ave.; 212-262-4600

Posted 1/6/09 at 6:28 PM

Closings

Patois Will Close

A couple of months after Trout closed and Jim Mamary declared his planned oyster bar “dead in the water,” Flo Fab brings news that his other restaurant with Alan Harding, the Smith Street pioneer Patois, will shutter on Sunday (also due to lease issues). It may reopen elsewhere, but the duo is now focused on Black Mountain Wine House on Union Street. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

Posted 1/6/09 at 6:05 PM

Glamburgers

Black Label Burger: Best in City?

Burger bro Nick Solares has finally weighed in on City Burger’s new glamburger: “I am completely enraptured by the Black Label burger. I don't consider it an expensive burger as much as a cheap steak. In these times of economic austerity don't be surprised if you see Wall Street executives, their expense accounts suspended, lining up at City Burger to satisfy the cravings that they used to sate at expensive wood-paneled steakhouses. For the steak lover, particularly those on a budget, this is the best burger in the city right now.” [A Hamburger Today]

Posted 1/6/09 at 5:51 PM

Dream Teams

Is Danny Meyer Thinking About Getting a Room at the Gramecy Park Hotel?

Scott Conant vehemently denied an Eater rumor that he was considering the still-vacant Wakiya space, but Danny Meyer sure seems interested. He tells the site, “The Gramercy Park Hotel's transformation has returned the storied landmark to its destination status. We admire Ian Schrager’s unique vision and would be honored to be considered for the space.” Interesting.

Competition for Wakiya Space Heats Up: Danny Meyer Shows Interest [Eater]

Posted 1/6/09 at 5:11 PM

Openings

Minetta Tavern Opening Soon
Minetta Tavern Opening Soon

Time Out sort of jumps the gun on a couple of openings this week, but we’re happy to hear they’re imminent — according to the new issue, the Seymour Burton redo, Butcher Bay, is opening (not until the middle or end of the month, we were told upon calling), as is the new Minetta Tavern (maybe next week, McNally is now saying). Roasted marrow bones and crispy pigs’ trotters? F*#$ YES. [TONY]

Posted 1/6/09 at 4:35 PM

Mixology Gone A-Rye

Crocktails

Three local cocktails make the list of World’s Dumbest: The World’s Peace at World Bar (which comes with a white-chocolate dove), the Cinema Highball at PDT (made with popcorn-infused rum and Coke), and of course the eponymous and infamous Eldridge cocktail. Please keep in mind: This is the same Website that absurdly included the beer-meets-frozen-margarita “margaveza” in its "20 Best Cocktails in America." [Men.Style.Com]

Posted 1/6/09 at 4:30 PM

Hot Chef News

Todd English Heats Up Online Dating in Canada

Todd English may be engaged as of this fall, but his new partnership with Canada's online-dating site, Lavalife, gives singles what he thinks they want: to make artichoke guacamole and the famous Olives crab cakes for group Valentine's Day gatherings. Ouch. English loaned the company ten recipes for spending February 14 at home, whether, according to the press release, you're "single and lovin' it" or trying out a "getting to know you" guest. Bake oysters on an intimate date, but eat them fried alone (if you can't get a date, you can at least batter some stuff up). For dessert, English recommended the falling chocolate cake with raspberry sauce — "a sexy dessert that can be shared with one spoon." Lots of food celebrities plug products, but online dating? Hot young chefs take note: It's the pretty ones (like Rocco shilling Bertolli) that are prone to these slippery slopes.

Lavalife and Chef Todd English to Partner for Valentine's Day 2009 [Official release]

Posted 1/6/09 at 4:16 PM

Contests

And Anthony Bourdain’s ‘Fermented Cactus Sap’ Is … Pulque!

And Anthony Bourdain’s ‘Fermented Cactus Sap’ Is … Pulque!

Photo: Courtesy of Travel Channel

If you watched that tacotastic episode of No Reservations last night, you’re now more than familiar with pulque, the fermented cactus sap that we asked you to guess the name of in order to win a signed No Reservations poster. We got a ton of responses, including at least one saying that pulque isn’t technically cactus sap. Yes, the maguey is technically an agave and not a cactus, but since Bourdain described it as “the sap of the maguey cactus” (as well as “man juice” and “Mexican Viagra”), that’s what we’re going with. In any case, if there’s a congratulatory message from us in your in-box right now, you’re the winner. If not — well, be the first to tell us where to find a pulqueria in New York and we’ll treat you to one of those gigantic glasses of the stuff.

Posted 1/6/09 at 4:00 PM

Two for Eight

Tables Available at Rayuela, Red Cat; Little Owl Fully Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Neighborhood Chic.

From bär-bō-nē to Trattoria L’Incontro. »

Posted 1/6/09 at 3:45 PM

Slideshow

Murray’s Bagels Co-Founder Set to Open Leo’s Next Week

Adam Pomerantz, co-founder of Murray’s Bagels, tells us that pending one last visit from ConEd, he’ll open Leo’s Bagels in the financial district early next week. (Between this and Chinorico, the “Spanish-Asian tapas–wine bar–beer hall,” the neighborhood is really looking up!) Murray’s devotees can expect pretty much the same menu of smoked fish, coffee, and of course a variety of bagels that are hand-rolled and baked on-site. A couple of novelties: A salad named the Leo (after Pomerantz’s uncle) will combine egg salad, lox, and onions; and a baker’s dozen will be called a “broker’s dozen.” Oy. As with Murray’s, Pomerantz’s wife, Joanne Robinson, designed the store, so this won’t be a, ahem, hole-in-the-wall — Pomerantz has sprung for subway tiles, a floor of bagel-shaped mosaics, and even takeout bags meant to appeal to Wall Street guys. (“Is that a bagel in your pocket?” asks the Victorian dame.)

Leo’s Bagels, 3 Hanover Sq., nr. Stone St.; 212-785-4700

Posted 1/6/09 at 3:22 PM

Openings

Ichiran Ramen Will Pre-Open As Members-Only Noodle Shop

Ichiran Ramen Will Pre-Open As Members-Only Noodle Shop

Photo: David Pollack

Ichiran Ramen’s opening date has proven just as slippery as its noodles. The Japanese chain’s first U.S. outpost, in Greenpoint, was featured in the magazine’s Fall 2007 preview, and though it was eagerly anticipated by Chowhounders, it never opened. As of spring of last year, according to one Chowhounder’s translation of a Japanese magazine, the location was “continuing to develop a special menu.” Now a sign has been posted indicating that it will open its doors, at first, as a “limited membership shop” accessible only to “those living in the distance which walks from this shop,” provided they fill out an application form. In other words, it seems the place is ready to shift into a bizarre version of friends-and-family while it tries to approximate the Tonkotsu ramen it serves in Nippon. (We can only assume it will also have the same awesome vending machines and peep-booth-type seating shown in this video.) If you have a friend in Greenpoint, this may be the time to call upon them. Meanwhile, here’s the rest of the message.

Read more »

Posted 1/6/09 at 1:27 PM

Crime Scenes

Cookie Monster

Like a diabolical cross between the Hamburglar and Otto from the Simpsons, an MTA bus driver is straight-up jacking his passengers’ food: “Lady, these are some good cookies.” [Overheard in New York]

Posted 1/6/09 at 12:20 PM

Announcements

Grubstreet.com

Grub Street made a resolution to simplify things this year — which is why we’re now viewable at grubstreet.com! Nice and easy, no? And remember, we’re also available on your mobile via m.nymag.com/grub/ (okay, that one you might have to bookmark). Many happy returns!

Posted 1/6/09 at 12:02 PM

Absurdity

Beard Awards
Beard Awards

So which bartender won that beard competition? “[Death & Company’s Phil] Ward cleaned up, nabbing the honors in three categories, including absorbability (soaking up the most beer with his beard); chili-dog eating (eating a sloppy tube steak without amassing telltale crumbs); and most inspiring runway show (Ward worked it as Jesus).” But in the end, Allen Katz won by a hair. [Feed/TONY]

Posted 1/6/09 at 11:14 AM

Cartography

Treats Truck Starts 2009 Today

The Treats Truck is on the road again. If you work near 38th and Fifth, consider it your lucky afternoon. [Treats Truck via Serious Eats]

Posted 1/6/09 at 11:03 AM

Recession Is Your Friend

Secret Sales?
Secret Sales?

In a classic example of looking a gift horse in the mouth, Wined & Dined asks whether certain restaurants are too proud to admit that their so-called anniversary specials (e.g. the $59 three-course prix fixe menu that the Four Seasons is offering throughout 2009 for lunch and dinner in the Pool Room; or the $98 three-course prix fixe menu that Daniel is offering throughout March, Monday through Thursday from 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.) are actually recession specials in disguise. [Wined & Dined]

Posted 1/6/09 at 10:59 AM

Big Fish

Sushi Moguls Buy Japan’s Priciest Tuna

In Tokyo yesterday, two sushi-bar owners bought a 282-pound bluefin tuna for $104,400, or about $370 a pound. This is the highest price paid for tuna since 2001, the AP reported. The fish was only one of three Oma bluefin available, compared to 41 up for auction in 2008. The buyers, one from Hong Kong and one from Japan, will share the fish.

Premium Tuna Sells for $104,400 in Auction [AP via WSJ]

Posted 1/6/09 at 9:42 AM

Cupmudgeonism

Down With Cupcakes
Down With Cupcakes

We thought we were cupcake haters, but we’re sugar and spice compared to cookbook author Carolynn Carreño: “Cupcakes by definition are not good. As far as sweets go, I would rather have a good cookie, ice cream, fruit desserts, dark chocolate, milk chocolate: basically anything else but a cupcake. But truly, without exaggeration or irony, I’d say that though Magnolia has the cache for reasons having to do with consumer stupidity and the power of television (e.g. Sex and the City) their cupcakes are probably the worst in town.” And don’t get her started on Crumbs. [What’s Eating Carolynn via Serious Eats]

Posted 1/6/09 at 9:19 AM

Mediavore

The Emerald Inn Gets a Stay of Execution; Market Diner Is Modernized

• In a small ray of good news for the city's dive bars, UWS watering hole the Emerald Inn, originally slated to close at the end of April, will stay open for at least two more years, as the landlord couldn't find anyone to pay the rent they wanted for the space. [NYT]

• Good news for English-speaking devotees of Chinatown's Lam Zhou! The restaurant now has a full bilingual menu. [Feedbag]

• The mysterious maple-syrup scent, last smelled in Manhattan in 2005, returned to the city last night. Its source remains unknown. [NYT]

• The recently reopened Market Diner is modernized but beautifully preserved. [Jeremiah's Vanishing New York]

• A Kansas City waiter's bad day was turned around when he was left a $1,100 tip on an $80 check. [MyFox Kansas City]

• As the publishing industry struggles to adapt to the recession, the day of the long lunch may be over. Or at least "editors and literary agents, who have often been among the best diners in the city, are now reconsidering their favorite restaurants." [NYT]

Posted 1/6/09 at 9:00 AM

Locavores

Niman Ranch Founder to Help Chipotle Go Greenmarket

Bill Niman

Bill Niman

Chipotle has hired Bill Niman, founder of Niman Ranch, to be a “sustainable agriculture adviser,” the company announced today. The fast-food burrito shop has bought pork from Niman Ranch since 2001, and last summer pledged to buy more produce from small to mid-size local farms. At Chipotle, Niman will "lead Chipotle’s continued movement toward sourcing food from sustainable resources; assist in broadening Chipotle’s commitment to sustainable agriculture; and provide a voice to help carry the message of making food from sustainable sources available and affordable so everyone can eat better," according to a company statement. Niman was left off the locavore wish list for secretary of Agriculture, but if he can show a chain with more than 800 restaurants how to better source their food with tastier results, his effect on the food industry may be even greater than that of the nation’s farmer-in-chief.

Chipotle Bolsters Management Team [Official site]
Earlier: Chipotle Goes Loco for Local Produce


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